Here’s a tip:

I had discovered during my research at home a story on cycling up onto and around the top of the wall of the Angkor Thom complex. I decided that this was what I absolutely must do while I was there, and you probably should too as you might have the whole place to yourself.

Most other people enter the South Gate and go straight ahead. Instead of following the crowd, we entered the gate and carried our bikes straight up to the left onto the ancient crumbling wall of the fortified city.

One of my favourite days ever

I remarked at some point during the day that this was one of the best days of my life. The thought of cruising languidly past ancient temples, walls and gateways with no helmet, wind in the hair and the 40° April heat kissing your face seemed heavenly. 

Hiring the bikes and getting them there (another tip!)

The first fun thing of the day was the hiring of the bikes, which happened to be very conveniently located about five metres from the entrance to our hotel. Easy, cheap and with baskets upfront to carry our backpacks, so that our sweaty backs didn’t have to. The bike hire agent picked two bikes out of the collection and kicked up the stand of one, which pinged off its housing and flew onto the footpath. No worries, wouldn’t need it anyway. Plenty of trees and the ground to use as bike stands.

I’m sure that I had read somewhere while researching the possibility of cycling the temple area that Remorks could not carry you and your bikes out there for you. There was at least half a dozen waiting Remorks within sight, so it wasn’t much of a surprise that the closest one was willing to shove two bicycles onto the back of it with the ratchet straps that we had brought from home in preparation (bonus tip!) I must say though, that it really did look like this had never been attempted by them before. There was much excitement and attraction by surrounding onlookers ie., other Remork drivers, which I found really quite strange considering the popularity of such an agenda and so we shoved the two bikes and the two of us into the Remork for the journey.

It was an eight-kilometre ride from where we were staying in the middle of town to the main archaeological area and we did see a few determined people biking their way out there along the interesting streets and pretty forest road. Good luck to them for the rest of the day though. On this subject, I’m amazed that there are no bicycle hire stands at the main entrance of Angkor Thom, which is the obvious location for them – but there are none (unless they have commenced this since our visit). This made our cycling day, especially along the outer wall, just spectacular as the bicycle population was minimal.

Riding to the corner and around to the West Gate

The three-kilometre journey from the South Gate to the seldom visited, but just as awe-inspiring West gate is an easy meander along the pretty track. Stop at the corner where you can take a break and explore the small ruins there while overlooking the expensive moat and the tethered hot air balloon in the distance. From the corner to the West Gate, there is a substantial break in the track where you have to carry your bike down and through a small gap in the trees, then up again to continue on the way to the gate.

Re-entering Angkor Thom

Once you get there, carry your bike down and explore! If you journey outside of the gate you will eventually come to the West Baray, one of the largest hand-cut water reservoirs on Earth dating back to around the 11th century. Otherwise, make your way back in toward the central temples including the Bayon. From there, take the North Gate towards Preah Khan or the Victory Gate (to the East) to head past a string of temples toward Ta Prohm and beyond (to read a post that includes these temples click here).

We were alone and riding bikes along the top of an ancient wall and it was the most beautiful track I had ever seen. It is proof that the simplest things in life are quite often the best and I will forever have a vivid memory of this. I can easily be back there right now in my mind and often use this vision as my happy place!

If you have you ever done this or explored a different part of the wall, please let me know of your experience or any obstacles to note.

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